02 Apr Rose Crochet Bag
A wind rose is a graphic tool used to give a view of how wind speed and direction are distributed at a particular location. The direction of the longest spoke shows the wind direction with the greatest frequency. Spokes of our crochet bag Rose are exactly same length; it means that you can keep carrying and going with your crochet projects no matter the direction you need to take every day. May the hook be with you!
INSPIRATION + DESIGN
Crochet in public bag is perfect to carry everything you need for your crochet adventures. This bag is great to carry your crochet project, especially if you are somewhere where you can sit and hold your yarn in your lap, in the bus or the tube. Take your crochet literally everywhere. Versatile item, ideal for the outdoors, at the beach or on a picnic. Where is the weirdest public place you have brought your crochet?
Crochet in public bag Rose uses a crochet zigzag stitch to show off the striping effect. If you can double crochet and crochet in the round, this project will be very easy. In very little time, you will be perfectly equipped to crochet in public.
The Anchor Creativa Fina yarn is available in amazing colours. I just love the chromatic variety of the skeins used for this bag.
HOW TO GET THIS CROCHET PATTERN
Option 1: Scroll down to see the FREE Crochet Pattern
Option 2: Purchase the printable PDF that includes written instructions pattern to walk you through every single step of making your own XX, is perfect if you like to crochet on the couch or on the go. This is a nicely formatted PDF perfect for your mobile or tablet viewing. Or, you can print and take it with you wherever you want, avoiding keeping busy the electronic screen of your device and leaving it free for your favorites movies, series or apps.
Also you support Hilaria Fina when buying this printable PDF, so that we can keep offering new contents for you.
STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES USED
MAGIC RING
Wrap yarn around two fingers, leaving 7cm long tail. Insert hook right to left under the two rows and pick the strand up (the one that leads to the skein), pulling the yarn back under the two rows, YO and pull through the loop (do not count as first stitch). Keep working the following stitches into the ring. Remove the ring from your fingers and pull the tail end to tight the ring.
CHAIN (ABBREVIATION ch)
YO and pull through loop on hook.
SLIP STITCH (ABBREVIATION: sl st)
Insert hook in stitch, YO and pull through both loops on hook at once.
DOUBLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: dc)
YO, insert hook into the stitch, YO and pull the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on your hook), YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook in one go (2 loops remain on the hook), YO again and pull through the remaining 2 loops on the hook.
FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET (abbrev. FPdc)
YO, insert hook from front to the back and to the front again around the post (vertical bar), YO, pull the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on the hook) and finish a dc as usual.
CHANGING TO A NEW COLOR
You will change to another colour by joining in the new colour during the final step of the last stitch in the old colour as follows: work the last stitch in the old colour until the last two loops of the stitch are on the hook, then using the new colour, YO and pull through the 2 remaining old colored loops on your hook. The next stitch you make will be the first stitch in the new colour.
INVISIBLE FASTEN OFF
Cut yarn, pull the yarn tail through the last stitch completely and thread yarn tail onto yarn/tapestry needle. Skip one stitch then insert needle into the next stitch under booth loops of the second stitch of the last round. Next, insert needle back into the same stitch that the yarn tail is coming from but into the back loop only. This creates a closing stitch. Weave tail into wrong side before trimming.
ABREVIATURAS
- cad = cadeneta
- cad2sp = espacio credo debajo de 2 cadenetas
- FPpa = punto alto por delante
- laz (s) = lazada (s)
- pa = punto alto
- pe = punto enano
- pto = punto (s)
- vta (s) = vuelta (s)
- Vta … = Al comienzo de cada línea del patrón encontrarás “Vta o “Hil” + el número de “vuelta” o “hilera”.
- (…) = Al final de cada línea encontrarás, el número de puntos que deberías tener una vez finalizada cada vuelta.
- […]…x … = Cuando parte de las instrucciones de una “vuelta” o “hilera” se repiten, irán entre llaves x el número de veces que se deberá repetir.
- (…) = los puntos entre (…) se trabajan en el mismo punto.
- Ejemplo: Vta 01. (3pb) en el mismo punto, [2pb, pb-aum] x 2. (11ptos)
SKILL LEVEL
LEVEL 2 – EASY
- If you are looking for a relaxing project, this is what you want. These patterns are very repetitive. They use basic stitches and easy procedures.
WHAT YOU NEED
- Crochet hook 4.00 mm (G US)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Nylon cord (220 cm)
- Lighter
- 2 cord ends
- Anchor Creativa Fino (100% Mercerized Cotton), 50g/125m :
nº 391 (petrol blue); 1 skein
nº 353 (aquamarine blue); 1 skein
nº 1332 (black); 2 skeins
nº 256 (fucsia); 1 skein
nº 245 (light pistachio green); 1 skein
Anchor Creativa is a soft and silky yarn made from high quality 100% mercerized cotton. It is a natural fibre yarn, which is hypoallergenic, breathable and easy to handle – making it perfect for garments, accessories and home decoration in crochet.
SIZE
- Using sport weight yarn, finished item will be approx. 60 cm x 60 cm.
NOTES
- This pattern is written in US terminology.
- This pattern is worked bottom-up.
- When you crochet in closed rounds, you will close each round with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round. The next round starts with one or more initial chain stitches (know as the “turning chains”) to get the right height for the following stitches and follows the same direction as the previous round.
- In some parts of the pattern, turning chains at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch or counted as a stitch, will be indicated.
- Changes in color should be made in the final YO of the previous stitch.
MORE FREE CROCHET PATTERNS FROM HILARIA FINA
If you enjoyed this crochet pattern, you may enjoy these other projects as well. If you just want to browse, you can find all of our free crochet patterns HERE.
WRITTEN PATTERN
ROSE CROCHET BAG
With 4.00 mm (G US) crochet hook, in 391 yarn.
To begin: Make a magic ring.
Rnd 01 (391). 3ch, counted as a st, work 11dc in ring, join with a slst. (12)
Rnd 02 (391). (3ch, counted as a st, dc) in same st, [(2dc)] x 11, join with slst. (24)
Rnd 03 (391). (3ch, counted as st, 2ch, dc) in same st, [skip dc, (dc, 2ch, dc) in same st] x 11, skip dc, join with a slst.
Rnd 04 (391). slst into the first ch2sp, (2ch, not counted as a st, 2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in same ch2sp,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp] x 11, join with a slst.
Rnd 05 (391). (slst in next dc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch),
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, FPdc, skip 2dc, FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, FPdc, skip dc, join with a slst.
Rnd 06 (391). (slst in next dc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 2FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 2FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 2FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 07 (353). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 2FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 3FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 3FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 3FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 08 (353). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 2FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 3FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 3FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 3FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 09 (353). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 3FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 4FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 4FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 4FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 10 (353). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 4FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 5FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 5FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 5FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 11 (353). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 4FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 5FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 5FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 5FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 12 (1332). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 5FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 6FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 6FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 6FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 13 (256). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 6FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 7FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 7FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 7FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 14 (256). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 6FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 7FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 7FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 7FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 15 (256). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 7FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 8FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 8FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 8FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 16 (1332). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 8FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 9FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 9FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 9FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 17 (391). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 8FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 9FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 9FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 9FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 18 (391). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 9FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 10FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 10FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 10FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 19 (391). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 10FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 11FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 11FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 11FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 20 (245). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 10FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 11FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 11FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 11FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 21 (245). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 11FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 12FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 12FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 12FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 22 (245). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 12FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 13FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 13FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 13FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 23 (245). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 12FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 13FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 13FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 13FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 24 (1332). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 13FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 14FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 14FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 14FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 25 (256). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 14FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 15FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 15FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 15FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 26 (1332). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 14FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 15FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 15FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 15FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst..
Rnd 27 (353). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 15FPdc,
[(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 16FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 16FPdc] x 11, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in ch2sp, 16FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Rnd 28 (1332). (slst in next FPdc, 2ch, not counted as a st, FPdc in same stitch), 16FPdc,
[(dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 17FPdc, skip 2FPdc, 17FPdc] x 11, (dc, 2ch, dc) in ch2sp, 17FPdc, skip FPdc, join with a slst.
Cut the yarn and make an invisible fasten off (see Stitches & Techniques used).
Weave in the ends.
CHECK CHART – ROSE.
Below you can find a video tutorial for this pattern
MULTICOLOR TASSEL (11 CM)
You’ll need: a piece of cardboard same length than the desired tassel, yarn and scissors.
STEP 01. STRANDS
Cut two strands of thread 38 cm long.
STEP 02. CARDBOARD – WRAP
Hold the strands together and wrap them at the same time 12 times around the width of the cardboard. You must stop at the same end you started at.
STEP 03. LOOP TOP
Take one 38 cm piece and fold in half and make a knot.
Using the crochet hook pull it under the wrapped yarns, then tie a triple knot in the center. Let the ends of the tying piece merge into the rest.
STEP 04. CUT & REMOVE CARDBOARD
Cut the yarn at the opposite (lower) edge and remove from cardboard.
STEP 05. HEAD OF TASSEL
To make the head of the tassel, take the other piece of yarn 38 cm long and wrap it firmly a few times around the body of the tassel. For the position, just decide what head size you would like. Make a double knot to finish. To hide the ends, thread them through a needle and pull them through, within the wrapped section, to merge with the rest of your tassel.
STEP 06. HAIRCUT
Now give your tassel a little haircut on the ends and you’re done!
CHECK PICS – TASSEL.
Below you can find a video tutorial
NYLON CORD
STEP 01. CORD ENDS
Place the tubular ends and use a lighter to melt the cord ends.
STEP 02. CORD AND TASSEL
Pass the cord through ch2sps at each point of last rnd and place the tassel.
CHECK PICS – NYLON CORD.
CONGRATS! You made it. I hope you enjoyed each step. ❥4U
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