Pyrus Amigurumi

Pyrus Amigurumi

Pyrus Amigurumi

“PYRUS AMIGURUMI” CROCHET PATTERN BY HILARIA FINA

También disponible en: Español

Being “la pera” (the pear), “la repera” (the re-pear) or ”la pera limonera” (the lemon tree pear), is a Spanish language expression that means to be the “maximum” you can imagine, positive or negatively. It could be used with people, objects or situations. It could refer, depending of context, to any attribute: for instance being very weird, being very lazy, being very good, being very complicated, being very skillful etc. If you are “la pera”, you are fabulous, you are great, you are terrific. Aren’t you that? Sure you are.
Pyrus Amigurumi



INSPIRATION + DESIGN


Basket is full of fresh fruits ready to eat, let’s start having a delicious limonera pear. We have it the very same colours offered by mother nature both red and green. For those that may prefer a minimalistic and monochromatic deco we offer a more conceptual version in neutral colours. Pyrus pear in silver will be first in the list.

THE PRINTABLE PDF


This PDF includes pattern with charts to walk you through every single step of making your own Pyrus Amigurumi, is perfect if you like to crochet on the couch or on the go. This is a nicely formatted PDF perfect for your mobile or tablet viewing. Or, you can print and take it with you wherever you want, avoiding keeping busy the electronic screen of your device and leaving it free for your favourites movies, series or apps.

Also you support Hilaria Fina when buying this printable PDF, so that we can keep offering new contents for you.

Scroll down to find the free, written crochet pattern.

Pyrus PDF Pattern



MORE PRINTABLES PATTERNS

Sabina Amigurumi
Sabina Amigurumi
4.60
Brígida Shawl
Brigida Shawl
3.60

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES USED


MAGIC RING (»here)
Wrap yarn around two fingers, leaving 7cm long tail. Insert hook right to left under the two rows and pick the strand up (the one that leads to the skein), pulling the yarn back under the two rows, YO and pull through the loop (do not count as first stitch). Keep working the following stitches into the ring. Remove the ring from your fingers and pull the tail end to tight the ring.

SLIP KNOT
With about 15 cm of yarn, make a loop. Insert your hook through the center of the loop, draw the end of the yarn through the loop, and pull on the tail to tighten.

CHAIN (ABBREVIATION ch)
YO and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook.

SLIP STITCH (ABBREVIATION: sl st)
Insert hook into the stitch, YO and pull through the stitch and also the loop on the hook in one go.

SINGLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: sc)
Insert hook into the stitch, YO and pull the yarn through the stitch (2 loops on your hook), YO again and pull through both loops on the hook in one go.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: hdc)
YO, insert hook into the stitch, YO and pull the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on your hook), YO and pull through all 3 loops on the hook in one go.

DOUBLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: dc)
YO, insert hook into the stitch, YO and pull the yarn through the stitch (3 loops on your hook), YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook in one go (2 loops remain on the hook), YO again and pull through the remaining 2 loops on the hook.

TREBLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: tr)
YO twice, insert hook into the stitch, YO and pull the yarn through the stitch (4 loops on the hook),YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook (3 loops remain on the hook), YO and pull through the first 2 loops again (2 loops remain on the hook), YO again and pull through the remaining 2 loops on the hook.



STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES USED


INVISIBLE DECREASE
Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then directly also into the front loop of the second stitch that you want to decrease (3 loops on the hook). YO and pull through both front loops on the hook in one go. YO again and pull through both loops on the hook in one go.

INCREASE (ABBREVIATION: inc)
To work an extra stitch, you simply need to work into the same stitch more than once. Work one stitch as normal. Insert hook into same stitch you’ve just worked and complete another st.

CHANGING TO A NEW COLOR
You will change to another colour by joining in the new colour during the final step of the last stitch in the old colour as follows: work the last stitch in the old colour until the last two loops of the stitch are on the hook, then using the new colour, YO and pull through the 2 remaining old colored loops on your hook. The next stitch you make will be the first stitch in the new colour.

INVISIBLE FASTEN OFF (»here)
Cut yarn, pull the yarn tail through the last stitch completely and thread yarn tail onto yarn/tapestry needle. Skip one stitch then insert needle into the next stitch under booth loops of the second stitch of the last round. Next, insert needle back into the same stitch that the yarn tail is coming from but into the back loop only. This creates a closing stitch. Weave tail into wrong side before trimming.

THROUGH FRONT LOOP (abbrev. tfl)
The front loop is the loop closest to you.

CROCHETING INTO THE BACK BUMP OF A CHAIN
Usually you crochet in the right side of the chain. When you turn your chain, you’ll see a small ‘bump’ on the wrong side of each stitch.



  • ABBREVIATIONS

    • ch = chain
    • dc = double crochet
    • hdc = half double crochet
    • -inc = increase (crochet 2 stitches into the same stitch, example: sc-inc)
    • lp (s) = loop (s)
    • rnd (s) = round (s)
    • sc (s) = single crochet
    • sc2tog = 2 single crochet together
    • slst = slip stitch
    • st (s) = stitch (es)
    • tfl = through front loop
    • tr = treble crochet
    • YO = yarn over
    • Rnd … / Row … = At the beginning of each pattern line, you’ll find “Rnd” or “Row” + a number to indicate which “round” or “row”.
    • (…) = At the end of each line you will find the number of stitches you should have at end of each “round” or “row”.
    • […] x … = When part of the instructions repeat throughout the “round” or “row”, it ́ll be placed between brackets x the number of times it should be repeated.
    • (…) = stitches between (…) are worked into the same stitch.
    • Example: Rnd 01. (3sc) in the same stitch, [2sc, sc-inc] x 2. (11 sts)



SKILL LEVEL


LEVEL 2 – EASY

If you are looking for a relaxing project, this is what you want. These patterns are very repetitive. They use basic stitches and easy procedures.

WHAT YOU NEED


  • Crochet hook 3.25 mm (D US)
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker
  • Scissors
  • Fiberfill for stuffing
  • Yarn: 8 ply / DK / light worsted
    Drops Muskat (100% mercerized cotton), 50g/1.8oz, 100m (109yds):
    nº 12 (red), nº 53 (apple green),
    nº 75 (chocolate), nº 16 (light green),
    nº 07 (light yellow), nº 19 (light grey),
    nº 17 (black).
  • Each of the fruit takes less than one skein of yarn to make so you’ll have leftovers for another project!



SIZE


  • Approximate size of a finished pear using 3.25 mm crochet hook: 16 X 9 cm.
  • Choose a different yarn weight with the corresponding crochet hook size to make a bigger or smaller version.

Get the printable PDF HERE.

SAVE this pattern to your Pinterest boards to read later HERE.

Pyrus Amigurumi



NOTES


  • This pattern is written in US terminology.
  • You should mark the first stitch of the round to keep track of where the round begins.
  • The leaf is crocheted first, then the stem and finally the pear. Follow the order of the pattern, the pieces are joined as we go.

MORE CROCHET PATTERNS TO FILL THE BASKET


If you enjoyed this crochet pattern, you may enjoy these other projects as well.  HERE.

START CROCHETING


LEAF

With 3.25 mm (D US) crochet hook, in chosen color.

To begin: 9ch + 1 turning chain.

Row 01.Crochet into the back bumps of the chain (see Stitches & Techniques used), 

starting in the second , sc, hdc, dc, 3tr, dc, hdc, sc. (9)

Cut the yarn and weave in all ends.

CHECK CHART – LEAF.



STEM

With 3.25 mm (D US) crochet hook, in chosen color.

To begin: 12ch + 1 turning chain.

Row 01. Crochet into the back bumps of the chain, starting in the second, 

5slst, add the leaf to the stem of the pear in 6th slst, continue with slst in next 5 chs, 

(8hdc) into the last chain, slst to first hdc. (11slst, 8hdc)

Cut the yarn and make an invisible fasten off (see Stitches & Techniques used).

Weave in the ends.

CHECK CHART – STEM AND PICS 01 TO 03.

CHART | STEM AND LEAF


Chart Stem and Leaf



PEAR

With 3.25 mm (D US) crochet hook, in chosen color.

To begin: Make a magic ring.

Rnd 01. 8hdc into ring, tighten the lp by putting the pear steam inside it; place marker. (8)

Rnd 02. crochet the pear and the base of the stem together, sc in each st around. (8)

Rnd 03. [sc, sc-inc] x 4. (12)

CHECK PICS 4 TO 08.

Rnd 04. sc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 05. [sc, sc-inc] x 6. (18)

Rnd 06/07. sc in each st around. (18)

Rnd 08. sc, sc-inc, [2sc, sc-inc] x 5, sc. (24)

Rnd 09/11. sc in each st around. (24)

Amigurumi Pyrus



Rnd 12. [3sc, sc-inc] x 6. (30)

Rnd 13/17. sc in each st around. (30)

Rnd 18. 2sc, sc-inc, [4sc, sc-inc] x 5, 2sc. (36)

Rnd 19. sc in each st around. (36)

Rnd 20. [5sc, sc-inc] x 6. (42)

Rnd 21. 3sc, sc-inc, [6sc, sc-inc] x 5, 3sc. (48)

Rnd 22. [7sc, sc-inc] x 6. (54)

Rnd 23/27. sc in each st around. (54)

Rnd 28. [7sc, sc2tog] x 6. (48)

Rnd 29. 3sc, sc2tog, [6sc, sc2tog] x 5, 3sc. (42)

Rnd 30. [5sc, sc2tog] x 6. (36)

Fill up the pear. Use your thumbs to make a little indentation on the top.

Rnd 31. 2sc, sc2tog, [4sc, sc2tog] x 5, 2sc. (30)

Rnd 32. [3sc, sc2tog] x 6. (24)

Rnd 33. sc, sc2tog, [2sc, sc2tog] x 5, sc. (18)

Rnd 34. [sc, sc2tog] x 6. (12)

Rnd 35. sc in each st around. (12)

Change to chosen color (see Stitches & Techniques used).

Rnd 36. [sc2tog] x 6.  (6)

Cut the yarn and close the remaining 6 stitches through the front loops (see Stitches & Techniques used). 

Use your thumbs to make a little indentation on the bottom.

Weave in all ends.

Crochet step by step



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Pyrus Amigurumi
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The design and pattern are copyright and must not be reproduced for resale! You are NOT allowed to sell finished items made from this pattern. For your personal use (non-profit) or for charity purposes you are permitted to make as many items from this pattern as you like specifying that it is an Hilaria Fina design made by this pattern and obtaining the prior, express and written permission of the Company.

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